Mountain Jichu Drake

This mountain creates spectacular views when trekking in Bhutan. Jichu Drake is located directly east of Chomolhari and has a distinctive pyramid-shaped peak composed of razor-sharp ridges. Jichu Drake is at the edge of Bhutan’s Jigme Dorje National Park and divides the border with Tibet. Blue sheep are often encountered in this area.

This peak is said to represent the protective deity of Paro but has seen little expedition activity. Climbing in Bhutan was allowed for a short period between 1983-1996. As of 1996, no technical climbing is permitted in Bhutan.

After an unsuccessful attempt on the southeast ridge by an all-women Japanese team in the pre-monsoon season of 1983, Austrians climbed to the lower south summit by the southwest ridge (AAJ, 1984, pages 224-5). In May of 1984, the Japanese climbed the southeast ridge but again went only to the south summit (AAJ, 1986, page 210). During the autumn, an Italian expedition attempted this elegant line, but tragically two climbers were hurled down the east face when the crest of the ridge broke away.(AAJ, 1985, pages 244-6).

Climbing History

The south summit was first climbed by the Austrian expedition of Werner Sucher, Albert Egger, Alois Stuckler, Sepp Mayerl, and Toni Ponholzer in May 1983. The first ascent of the higher North summit was in May 1988 by Sharu Prabhu from India, Doug Scott, and Victor Saunders from the UK via the south face.

The Italian climbers Giorgio Corradini and Tiziano Nannuzzi were killed during an attempt at the North summit in 1984.

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